parallel lookups: actual switch to rwsem

ta-da!

The main issue is the lack of down_write_killable(), so the places
like readdir.c switched to plain inode_lock(); once killable
variants of rwsem primitives appear, that'll be dealt with.

lockdep side also might need more work

Signed-off-by: Al Viro <viro@zeniv.linux.org.uk>