bcachefs: make RO snapshots actually RO

Add checks to all the VFS paths for "are we in a RO snapshot?".

Note - we don't check this when setting inode options via our xattr
interface, since those generally only affect data placement, not
contents of data.

Signed-off-by: Kent Overstreet <kent.overstreet@linux.dev>
Reported-by: "Carl E. Thompson" <list-bcachefs@carlthompson.net>