virtio: access ISR atomically

This will be needed once dataplane will be able to set it outside
the big QEMU lock.

Reviewed-by: Stefan Hajnoczi <stefanha@redhat.com>
Tested-by: Farhan Ali <alifm@linux.vnet.ibm.com>
Tested-by: Alex Williamson <alex.williamson@redhat.com>
Signed-off-by: Paolo Bonzini <pbonzini@redhat.com>
Reviewed-by: Michael S. Tsirkin <mst@redhat.com>
Signed-off-by: Michael S. Tsirkin <mst@redhat.com>