ext4: fix checksum errors with indexed dirs

DIR_INDEX has been introduced as a compat ext4 feature. That means that
even kernels / tools that don't understand the feature may modify the
filesystem. This works because for kernels not understanding indexed dir
format, internal htree nodes appear just as empty directory entries.
Index dir aware kernels then check the htree structure is still
consistent before using the data. This all worked reasonably well until
metadata checksums were introduced. The problem is that these
effectively made DIR_INDEX only ro-compatible because internal htree
nodes store checksums in a different place than normal directory blocks.
Thus any modification ignorant to DIR_INDEX (or just clearing
EXT4_INDEX_FL from the inode) will effectively cause checksum mismatch
and trigger kernel errors. So we have to be more careful when dealing
with indexed directories on filesystems with checksumming enabled.

1) We just disallow loading any directory inodes with EXT4_INDEX_FL when
DIR_INDE...