fuse: cache readdir calls if filesystem opts out of opendir

If a filesystem returns ENOSYS from opendir and thus opts out of
opendir and releasedir requests, it almost certainly would also like
readdir results cached. Default open_flags to FOPEN_KEEP_CACHE and
FOPEN_CACHE_DIR in that case.

With this patch, I've measured recursive directory enumeration across
large FUSE mounts to be faster than native mounts.

Signed-off-by: Chad Austin <chadaustin@fb.com>
Signed-off-by: Miklos Szeredi <mszeredi@redhat.com>